Have you noticed tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in your skincare ingredients list and you wonder what it is and what it does?
No need to worry, I’m here to offer all the answers you’re looking for!
In this article, I’ll go over:
- What tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is;
- What are the best products with tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate;
- Answers to some of the most frequently asked questions about tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.
Let’s geek out, shall we?
What is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate in skincare?
In a nutshell, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a vitamin C, derivative of pure l-ascorbic acid, with benefits such as skin brightening, collagen production, protection from free radicals, and everything else that vitamin C is famous in skincare.
Let’s go a step back and remember all that vitamin C can offer.
It’s a super antioxidant that protects the skin from oxidative stress and, therefore, slows down aging and all of the unwelcome signs associated with it (fine lines, wrinkles, you know what I’m talking about).
Vitamin C boosts your SPF and makes your sunscreen much more effective. It “mops up” the damage caused by UV light thus increasing the time necessary for the skin to burn.
Don’t get me wrong, vitamin C won’t protect you from the sun but in combination with your SPF, it offers significant photoprotective properties. This makes the combo of antioxidants plus SPF a really powerful pair.
Vitamin C also encourages collagen production in the skin, which helps maintain skin elasticity and a youthful look. It brightens the skin tone and helps reduce pigmentation and other forms of discoloration.
But what is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate?
As a true Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate enthusiast, I’d like to note that this vitamin C derivative can be used by any skin type, even sensitive.
As opposed to ascorbic acid, it’s oil soluble and can be effectively formulated at a pH of 5, making it non-acidic and gentle for the skin. When used in combination with other ingredients like niacinamide, licorice root, or kojic acid, it can be a true superpower, even for skin conditions like melasma.
So what is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate good for?
TDH or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate evens out the skin tone and brightens the skin, boosts collagen production, and acts as an antioxidant. It’s photoprotective and fat-soluble, meaning that your skin will like it better than water-soluble substances that don’t penetrate the skin easily and are therefore not as effective.
Best products with Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Now, let me share some of the best products with tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate that I’ve discovered over the years.
Paula’s Choice RESIST Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum
Paula’s Choice Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a magical combo of antioxidants in an extremely lightweight formula that offers skin-brightening, hydrating, and protective properties. It comes in a bottle of 1 oz (30 ml) and sells for around $43. It’s designed for daily use and offers protection from environmental stress and therefore helps the skin look younger for longer.
Water (Aqua), Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Polysilicone-11, Lauryl Peg-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Hyaluronic Acid, Resveratrol, Niacinamide, Quercetin, Adenosine, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Phospholipids, Ubiquinone, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Sea Whip Extract, Bisabolol, Beta-Glucan, Phytic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium Edta, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Apart from Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, whose functions we’ve already discussed, the product also contains:
- Niacinamide – an antioxidant that helps improve skin tone, reduce pore size, minimize wrinkles and fine lines, and protect the skin barrier while reducing excess sebum production.
- Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and phospholipids help the serum lock in moisture and hydrate the skin in depth, defending the skin against excessive dryness and dehydration.
- Ubiquinone, tocopherol, and resveratrol – are other powerful antioxidants that add up to the protective power of the tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate – the more, the merrier, if you ask me.
- Bisabodol, beta-glucan, sea whip extract, and quercetin – soothe and calm the skin, which is always good news for folks with sensitive skin.
- Adenosine – has wrinkle-smoothing and skin-soothing properties, and nicely rounds up this formulation.
But let’s not be all dry about it and see how this product feels and works in a day-to-day skincare regime.
What we like:
- Upon looking at the ingredients and before buying this product, I was pleased to see that it’s intelligently formulated with TDH and niacinamide – they are complementary ingredients and do great teamwork to lighten up any spots that you may have, be it PIH or sun spots. The addition of other antioxidants makes this product everything you may need in your morning routine.
- I had great first impressions with the serum – it has a lightweight texture that went on my face effortlessly. I instantly felt my skin nourished without being weighed down. The serum plumps the skin and plays well under sunscreen and makeup.
- I saw the first results in about a week – my skin felt bouncier than before introducing this product, and it seemed like some spots have started to fade. It definitely speeds up the process of fading my post-acne marks.
- I also appreciate that there is no fragrance in the product, which makes it an adequate choice for people with sensitive skin who are always on the lookout for fewer irritants in their routines.
What to have in mind:
The packaging definitely needs more work, in my opinion. At times I struggled to get the product out.
The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F
The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F is next up on my list of TDH serums.
You get 1 oz (30 ml) for around $20 – it’s the cheapest option from this list and I recommend it to all of you looking for an effective budget product.
It has the heaviest formula of all products that I’ll review today and I’d say that it’ll be well-loved by people with normal and dry skin.
Oily peeps, depending on how much sebum you produce through the day, you can either tolerate this or totally hate it. My skin is prone to oiliness and I managed to stick with this product throughout its shelf life.
If you do decide to go for it, use three drops at a time, at most – enough to spread it on your entire face but not enough to cover you in oil.
Coconut Alkanes, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate 20.0%, Ethyl Linoleate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Squalane
As with most The Ordinary products, we see a minimalistic ingredient list – only the most essential is included. The serum features 20% TDH which is in a better range than most products on the market.
Besides that, we also have:
- Ethyl Linoleate, which is vitamin F – an anti-inflammatory agent that helps minimize inflammation and irritation. It’s also an antioxidant, making the product even more protective against oxidative damage and photoaging.
- Squalane is one of the most popular and effective skin softeners that also moisturize the skin. This oil is famous for how lightweight it is.
- Jojoba oil is more occlusive and it nourishes the skin on a deep level. It assists in minimizing irritation and redness.
- Tomato fruit extract – a powerful antioxidant that is packed with vitamins and minerals, helps regulate the pH balance of the skin, and controls sebum production.
What we like:
- This is the most budget-friendly product on this list, making it an affordable choice for any skincare user, especially in this time of economic recession.
- The texture is definitely not too thick and heavy, it absorbs well and gives a nice, healthy glow. Even with skin prone to oiliness, I didn’t feel it too heavy.
- If you’re oily-prone, it’s the perfect fit for colder weather as it offers the necessary hydration for the winter months (this certainly doesn’t mean you can’t use it in the summer too if your skin likes it).
- I used it both morning and evening with no side effects or discomfort, it’s a gentle product and despite the presence of a vitamin C derivative, it’s still a good option for sensitive (even sensitized) skin.
- This serum doesn’t have a strong scent, you can barely sense any scent at all and it’s coming from the actual ingredients – there’s no added fragrance.
What to have in mind:
I have nothing bad to say about this serum besides the recent price increase in most TO skincare products. But, who doesn’t increase their prices in this day and age? The product is still worth every cent.
Glow Recipe Guava Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum
Next up on the list of best tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate serums is the Glow Recipe Guava Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum.
I love me some Glow Recipe.
Their products are always super nice to use and give an amazing user experience while bringing some well-appreciated results to the table. The brand is well-known for its fun-to-use skincare and its entire range stands out with the fact that they’re not aggressive and harsh on the skin.
One con – they are slightly more expensive than your average skincare brand.
But I digress. Let’s see why this serum takes a well-deserved spot on my list of THDC products that you should also try.
This serum is in a 1 oz (30 ml) pump bottle and sells for around $45. The packaging is pinkish glass and feels very lux.
Water/Aqua/Eau, Propanediol, C9-12 Alkane, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tranexamic Acid, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Psidium Guajava Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ferulic Acid, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Musa Sapientum (Banana) Fruit Extract, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Extract, Pyrus Communis (Pear) Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Betaine, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Phytate, Potassium Sorbate, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol
It’s a fairly complex formula that features several plant and fruit extracts – all are rich in vitamins and invaluable nutrients for the skin.
It’s also unique in that it features 5 different vitamin C derivatives, namely Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and 3-0 Ethyl Ascorbic acid which have strong anti-acne properties and prevent acne breakouts and inflammation. And Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, and Ascorbyl Glucoside nicely round up and support the formulation to give you further protection and even more skin-loving effects.
- Ferulic Acid, raspberry fruit extract, tocopheryl acetate, and tocopherol are all other types of antioxidants that protect the skin against free radicals and oxidative stress, minimize signs of aging and reduce inflammation in the skin.
- Tranexamic Acid and Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract are soothing agents that soften and calm irritated skin.
- Sodium hyaluronate and glycerin are humectants that retain water in the skin and therefore hydrate and moisturize.
Overall, a nice and rich formula.
What we like:
- The user experience is by far the best here than in any other tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate serum on this list. It smells amazing, feels amazing, and leaves my skin nourished and cared for, giving it all the fighting power it will need for the day ahead.
- It smells like candy, which I’m adding to the list of pros for me, but I’m aware that not all people will like a scented product.
- The serum contains a chock full of skin-loving ingredients, like lots of antioxidants and brightening agents. I’d definitely recommend it to someone with acne hyperpigmentation or age spots. Even though it’s pricey, it deserves your attention and you’ll be very happy to have tried this one.
- This serum allows me to minimize the rest of my morning skincare routine – it’s all I need before a moisturizer, which allows me to save a nickel from other, complementary products.
- It gives your skin an instant glow and hydration, and you see the brightening effects fairly quickly too. It evens out your entire face, pimples and all.
- The texture is non-sticky and gel-like, it soaks in quickly and is nice for layering with the rest of your routine and makeup.
What to have in mind:
My only personal quarry with the serum is its price, really. It’s worth it but, for how addicted I am to this, I wish it was cheaper.
Peter Thomas Roth Potent C Power Serum
The last suggestion on my list of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate serums is the Peter Thomas Roth Potent C Power Serum.
The product is marketed as a rather innovative and new-age Vitamin C solution that is designed to unlock the full potential of THD ascorbate, offering something that’s 50 times stronger than standard Vitamin C. It’s targeted at people looking to fight aging, loss of firmness, dullness, uneven skin texture, dark spots and discoloration, uneven skin, dryness, and other concerns.
It’s in a luxurious-looking 1 oz bottle (30 ml) for the price of $105 and is amongst those products that will be loved by those of you with more mature, aging skin.
The formula is unique in that it combines THD with vitamin E and ferulic acid to increase its stability, penetration, and effects it has on the skin.
Let’s look at the ingredients up close.
Water/Aqua/Eau, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Butylene Glycol, C9-12 Alkane, Caprylyl Methicone, Tocopheryl Acetate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Ferulic Acid, Squalane, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Jojoba Esters, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Xanthan Gum, Disodium Edta, Mica, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
- Ferulic acid, if you didn’t know, can double the protection you get from your vitamin C. In this formula, combined with vitamin E, that’s a certain thing.
- Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is accompanied by turmeric root extract to give you extra brightening power and even out age spots.
- The formula is chock-full of other antioxidants – tocopheryl acetate, ginger root extract, turmeric root extract, and ginseng root extract, to name a few.
- The formula is soothing and deeply moisturizing thanks to squalane, sodium hyaluronate, and glycerin.
All of this shows us that the formula is rich and deeply hydrating + moisturizing, which is a must for aging skin.
But let’s see what my experience with the product showed.
What we like:
- After two weeks of consistent use, I was happy to see some significant change in my fine lines – my crow lines completely disappeared and my neck was evened out and soft-looking. My skin felt smoother and plumper after just a few days, though.
- The hydrating effects are outstanding! Although I believe this is a plus for most people, I’d be careful if you have oily skin.
- The product can definitely be tolerated by people with sensitive skin – I used it when I felt irritated by constant product testing and this didn’t bother me at all.
- The texture is extremely rich and creamy. Applying it is pure joy!
What to have in mind:
- Personally, this product is a bit pricey for my budget at the moment, and I was lucky to get my hands on it. If you have the money and don’t mind trying this out, you might end up loving it.
- There’s a noticeable cedar scent in the product which I wouldn’t say is pleasant. For me, it’s nothing too serious, especially considering the effects of the product, but if you’re too picky, you may not enjoy this.
- This is on the richer side, and unless you have normal, dry, and aging skin – it will be too heavy for you.
What’s the difference between Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate?
Unlike Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Еthyl Ascorbic Acid is water-soluble. It converts much slower into the skin and is considered the more gentle of the two. People with sensitive skin that can’t handle THD ascorbate can benefit from trying skincare products with Ethyl Ascorbic Acid.
When it comes to the Ethyl Ascorbic Acid vs Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate debate it’s important to note that 3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a rather stable form of Vitamin C. At the same time, it must still transform into an active form of Vitamin C when applied to the skin.
If you’ve noticed that your skin doesn’t tolerate ascorbic acid (especially when in a concentration of over 10%) I’d recommend trying Еthyl L-Ascorbic Acid.
Is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate better than L-ascorbic Acid?
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is considered to be better than L-ascorbic acid in the sense that it’s a more stable, gentle alternative that will not cause adverse reactions. With consistent use, THD can achieve results similar to those of pure ascorbic acid.
However, LAA has more research to back up its results in the skin and it shows quicker results. So, if you can handle pure LAA do opt for such a product. But if your skin is too sensitive and can’t handle pure L-ascorbic acid, you’ll be better off trying TA or other vitamin C alternatives.
Can you use Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Niacinamide in the same routine?
Yes, you can use tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and niacinamide together. Niacinamide and THDC make a great combo and are a powerful solution even for people with serious skin conditions, like melasma. Having niacinamide and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate in the same routine will reward you with quicker results, offering extensive anti-aging properties and the benefits of each ingredient.
As mentioned above, you can also use Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate together with kojic acid and licorice root extract.
Coffee itself isn’t considered a very potent and effective ingredient in the fight against acne. It merely has a supportive role, which many folks find helpful.
Part of the masks, I’ve recommended above, have clay, which extracts the excess sebum and prevents acne breakouts. Other masks may contain other ingredients that are helpful for acne. Again, I suggest digging deeper into the formula of your selected coffee face mask and digging deeper into ingredients that are beneficial for treating pimples.
What’s the difference between Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate vs Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate?
When looking at the tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate vs ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate comparison, it’s important to note that they basically do the same thing and are extremely similar in terms of structure, yet they are two chemicals with slight differences.
From a chemistry standpoint, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is the mix of ascorbic acid and isopalmitic acid, and 14-methylpentadecanoic acid, while tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is created by mixing ascorbic acid with 2-hexyldecanoic acid, which means that the chemical structures of ATIP and THDCA ultimately differ.
Some manufacturers also state that ATIP is a bit more challenging to produce, which may have an influence on properties like skin permeability, resulting in its higher price.
This pretty much wraps it all up when it comes to Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.
If you have any experience with this Vitamin C derivative or with any of the recommended products on this list, I’d love to hear your thoughts.
Please use the comments section below and share your experiences and your stories with my readers and me.
If you have any questions – drop me a line as well.
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